Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.